Anirban Das
- 4 days ago
- 5 min read

The History of Sugar: A Sweet Story Rooted in India’s Trade Legacy

In our kitchens, sugar is as indispensable as salt. For those who don't particularly enjoy sweets, it may be a different matter, but even then, can you truly eliminate sugar from your life? We often think about reducing its use, but it's hard to completely give it up. And the reason behind most of the sweetness we savor is sugar. But is the sugar we know today really from China? When and how did it become a staple on our plates? Today, let’s explore the intriguing history of sugar. You might think, "What kind of history could sugar possibly have?" Although it looks like a simple ingredient, its history is anything but ordinary. In fact, as you delve into the story, you might find yourself feeling proud of its deep connection to India, particularly Bengal.

Is Sugar from China?

In a previous episode where we discussed the history of Bengali sweets, some of you asked, "Isn’t sugar a foreign product? Didn't it come from China? How does it fit into Bengal’s ancient history?" Yes, it's true that the word "chini" (meaning sugar in Bengali) is derived from "China," but the crystallized sugar we use today did not originate there—it was born in India. Let me explain.

The English word "sugar" comes from the Sanskrit term "sharkara," referring to granulated sugar. And here's another fun fact—if you love candies, you'll be interested to know that the word "candy" is derived from the Sanskrit word "khanda," meaning a piece or fragment. As these names suggest, India has a long-standing relationship with sugar, stretching back to ancient times.

If you pay attention, you'll notice that only in Eastern India, particularly Bengal, sugar is called "chini." In other parts of India, it goes by other names derived from "sharkara" or "khanda," such as "shakar," "sakhar," or "khand." Why the difference? The answer lies in a fascinating chapter of India’s glorious trade history, where we find many reasons to feel proud.

Where Did Sugar Originate?

So far, the oldest evidence of sugarcane cultivation has been found in Papua New Guinea, Southeast Asia. In India, sugarcane has been grown for thousands of years, even during the time of the Indus Valley Civilization. However, the crystallized sugar we know today first appeared over 2,500 years ago—not in China, but in India.

What’s the evidence? The Atharvaveda, written over 3,000 years ago, mentions "ikshu," or sugarcane cultivation. The Rigveda also refers to sugarcane. By the time of Sushruta Samhita, over 2,500 years ago, the term "sharkara" was being used to describe crystallized sugar. In fact, by this time, Indians had already mastered the process of refining sugarcane juice, using substances like lime, boiling, and drying it to produce crystallized sugar. Later, texts such as Charaka Samhita and Kautilya’s Arthashastra also mention sugarcane cultivation and the production of sugar, proving that India was the birthplace of this sweet product.

Why Do We Call It 'Chini'?

If sugar was born in India, why do we call it "chini"? The answer lies in India’s ancient trade history. Bengal, in particular, has long been a major producer of sugarcane. It is said that the name "Gaur" (the ancient name of Bengal) came from the word "gur," referring to jaggery, a product of sugarcane. The region became famous for its "Gauri" wine made from this jaggery. Agriculture was the backbone of trade at the time, with sugarcane being one of the most important crops alongside rice and betel nut.

Ancient texts like Saduktikarnamrita mention the image of fields filled with rice and sugarcane, showing how integral these crops were to Bengal’s economy. However, the picture became even more vibrant after Indians invented the process of crystallizing sugar. In Arthashastra, there are references to high taxes on sugarcane and sugar, indicating how profitable the sugar industry had become.

Trade with the Middle East

India’s commercial ties with the Middle East date back to the Indus Valley Civilization. Through Arab traders, Indian products entered the European market. Once India developed crystallized sugar, its non-perishable nature made it even more suitable for export. Soon, sugar from India was being exported to Persia, the Middle East, and China.

This trade flourished particularly during the Gupta period. It was during this time that the technique of sugar-making was introduced to China. Bengal’s ports, such as Tamralipta and later Saptagram, played a crucial role in international trade. Arab traders were pivotal in the sugar trade, connecting India, China, and the West. This is why, over time, sugar became widely known as "chini" in Eastern India, particularly in Bengal.

The Role of British Colonization

The story doesn’t end there. In the modern era, when the British East India Company arrived in India, Bengal’s sugarcane industry became a major source of profit for them. They turned sugar production into a large-scale industry, leading to severe exploitation. Around this time, Chinese immigrants also arrived in Bengal, many of them becoming involved in the sugar industry. Remember the story of Tong Achiu from Achipur? He was the one who set up a sugar factory in Bengal. This historical connection between sugar and Chinese immigrants likely further strengthened the association of sugar with China in Bengal.

The Economic Importance of Sugar in India

Although sugar may seem like a Chinese product, its roots are deeply embedded in India. India was the first country to extensively cultivate sugarcane as a crop and invent the process of making crystallized sugar. For centuries, sugar, along with jaggery and sugarcane, played a crucial role in India’s economy. Until recently, India was the world's largest producer of sugar, a title now held by Brazil. Nevertheless, India still accounts for 20% of the world's total sugar production. Within India, sugar remains one of the largest agricultural industries, often ranking second or third in terms of size.

This means sugar is far from insignificant when it comes to India’s economy. Those who follow current affairs have probably heard of ethanol—a byproduct of the sugar industry. Since India lacks sufficient petrol resources, the country spends a significant amount of money importing oil, with around 40% of the government’s revenue being spent on these imports, which accounts for 5% of India's total GDP. Ethanol is a biofuel, and in recent years, the government has taken steps to blend ethanol with petrol. In 2022-23, the target was to achieve a 12% ethanol blend with petrol, and by 2025, this ratio is expected to reach 20%.

This has led to a significant rise in the stocks of sugar companies, some seeing a fivefold increase in returns. Stocks that were priced at INR 60 have now nearly touched INR 500. Recently, the central government has allowed sugar mills to produce ethanol, giving the industry a new direction.

A Sweet Conclusion

Those of you who tuned in expecting to hear the story of sugar may not have anticipated a discussion on economics and the stock market! I didn’t expect it either, but the story took us there, so I went along. If you found it interesting, let me know in the comments. If not, I’ll make sure to stick to history next time! In any case, don’t forget to share how you liked this sweet yet grand tale of sugar.